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Today, we are going to finally explain goodyear welt shoes and how are they made as well as the benefits of this shoemaking technique. This method is illustrated in the diagram below.
Simply put, a welt is a piece of leather or rubber or plastic that attaches the upper and the insole of the shoe with the outsole. This process consists of a couple of steps.
First the upper is created and stretched around a last.
Then the insole is created and a canvas rib is glued to the bottom of the insole in order for the shoe to be stitched to the outsole.
The insole is then attached to the last and the welt is stitched on to the upper which now binds together the upper and the insole. This is called a Welt Stitch.
Now the empty space created at the bottom of the insole in because of the attaching of the rib is filled with cork. This cork occupies the space between the insole and the outsole.
And Finally, the outsole is then stitched to the already welted together components of the shoe and the heel is added to the outsole.
In essence Goodyear welt shoes are stitched together twice. The First stitch binds the upper, the insole and the rib together and the second stitch binds the already stitched together components of the shoe to the outsole.
There are some other things that I have not covered in this process which are fairly standard to most shoemaking. I have not covered them because they are standard procedures in shoe making and it isn’t necessary to know them unless you are a budding shoemaker.
Now lets look at the pros and cons of this method of shoe construction
- Durable Shoes are made this way because of the leathers and construction method used.
- Easily resoleable.
- Cork Footbed molds to fit your feet, giving it a custom fit that is very comfortable.
- Goodyear welt shoes come in a variety of different leathers and styles
- Most shoes made this way use quality materials.
- More expensive than a blake stitched or cemented shoe to purchase.
- Blake stitching can produce shoes that are sleeker.
- Some Goodyear welt shoes have a harsh break in period.
If you want a further explanation of this, then this video by famed shoemaker John Lobb will explain it to you.
I hope you have enjoyed today’s content and gained valuable information from it.
Till Next Time